By Elaina Kleven

The Moschino Spring 2022 ready-to-wear spring collection has been released to the public, and has been receiving positive press. 

Since Jeremy Scott became the creative director of Moschino in 2013, his shows have been heavily criticized as tacky, overbearing and lacking the camp-chic qualities that Moschino had established itself as in the mid-90s.

What nailed Scott’s coffin was the 2018 fall collection when he released a show inspired by Trump’s immigration policies called “Illegal Aliens.” The show features many models painted different shades of the rainbow.

Many came forward and criticized the show as extremely insensitive to the situation that was happening and felt that his profiting off of others’ tragedies was doing more harm than good.

However, Moschino received surprisingly good feedback from critics in the fall 2021 and spring 2022 shows.

It seems fair to question why Moschino is now getting good again. And what made it good in the first place?

At the base, Moschino is essentially a chic-camp. Its attraction is based on breaking the serious and uptight association luxury brands hold and instead makes fun of it in some ways and makes luxury fashion fun and attractive for everyone, unlike old-money couture, which infamously profits off of inclusivity.

What is, objectively, the reason why the brand was able to keep its reputation until Scott arrived was its play on classic silhouettes and styling.

In the ‘90s, when Moschino was thriving, the most popular designs were those based around popular silhouettes at the time. Miniskirt and blazer sets, dress coats and vintage dress patterns were trending, and Moschino stuck to those designs but added unreserved prints and bold accessories to elevate these.

When Scott first infamously joined, the first thing he immediately changed was experimenting with the silhouette. Often adding feathers, bold padding and generally not classic elements to the designs. His maximalist prints, bold silhouette and over-accessorizing destroyed the chic elements that Moschino once had and made it lose its connection to high-class fashion. 

Now that Scott has brought back these simple silhouettes in play with his prints, it has brought Moschino back to its original roots and is once again making it desirable to the public.